Isolators easily and properly connect the lighting from your trailer, sidecar, trike, etc. Proper isolation of electrical loads will help you to not void any factory warranty. Our design is a modular daisy chain of a separate sub-harness, modules and the Isolator. The advantage is that you can accommodate a 5 wire trailer, a 4 wire trailer, or swap sub-harnesses should you sell your current bike.
All our electronics are made in the USA.
Isolator The isolator is the main component. And ours is made in the USA. Tennessee to be exact. Ours are epoxy potted for weather resistance using Omron components Omron is an OEM supplier to most all the major automotive and motorcycle manufacturers. We use the best component available for the job; in fact, Toyota uses the same component for power window switching.
Trailer Light Converter 5 to 4 module If your trailer is a 4 wire setup has combined brake and turn signalsyou also need our made in the USA converter. How do you tell if you need it? Look at the wiring plug on your trailer — does it only have 4 wires?
Installation simply requires you to plug it in-between the Sub-Harness and the Isolator and then connect one wire to ground. Going to a 4 wire setup is completely reversible by simply unplugging the module to revert to a 5 wire system.
Adding the converter only utilizes 3 of the 4 circuits in the isolator — the design allows the 4th circuit to power an accessory. Our converter will work with LED lights since it is active electronics. Due to increased credit card fraud, if your billing address does not match your credit card verified address, we simply cannot ship your order. Thank you for understanding. Isolator, Universal quantity. Add to Wishlist.By FJanuary 17, in Electrical.
I cannot establish 12 volt house power using the battery cut-off switch located on the passenger side console.
This switch has a sliding release lock and the manual states that the switch locks in the ON position however mine will not lock. When I do release the lock and push it to ON I can hear the solenoid s click but even while holding the switch in the ON position I still do not have 12 volt power. Does anyone know if the switch is supposed to lock in place or is the voltage supposed to be latched in by a momentary contact of the switch?
I don't think it is an Intellitec system. I do have the Itellitec for control of the water pump but this seems to be the normal 12 volt solenoids There are actually 2 solenoids and the one upsteam of the 4 terminal unit I replaced has 2 terminals and there are wires going to the 4 terminal unit. There are 2 ways the relays where wired. These are latching relays and the switch is a momentary rocking switch that toggles them off an on. The difference in the wiring is where the fuse link s is connected.
The links are gray in color and outwardly show no sign of being open. Both fuse links need to be good and both relays need to energize to get the system on line. There should be a Purple wire from the switch to the relay, at the switch there will be a white wire going to ground and the other end of the Purple wire.
Purple wire to center connection of the SW. Is this what you see? The switch does not need to be locked to keep the circuit active!
Making Sense of Automatic Charging Relays
The lock is to prevent from inadvertently turning off the 12 volt system. One gets a large spark if you do!!!! Not found at the auto supply store. Page Monaco prints. The latching relay is an effective battery disconnect device.
The LR is a single-pulse latching relay. It only requires a short "pulse" of voltage to activate or deactivate the relay. Since the LR does not require constant voltage, it is one less load on the battery. Original equipment on high end Monaco motorhomes since !
34 Stinger Battery Isolator Wiring Diagram
They are fully automatic devices which are used in motorhomes to keep the chassis battery fully charged when the coach is plugged into shore power, or the AC generator is operating.
Both will deliver up to 15 Amp.Table of Contents. As the name suggests, An Isolator or Disconnector is an isolating or disconnecting switch which disconnects or isolate the whole or a specific part of the circuit. It is used where we need to disconnect a portion of the circuit in case of faults from the main power supply for maintenance purposes. Isolator blocks the DC current and allow the AC current to flow through it same like a capacitor. Switch Disconnectors are used in MV installation nowadays.
A Circuit Breaker is a protective device used to control the flow of current same like a fuse. It break the circuit in case of fault conditions like short circuit and overload. It also capable to operate automatically, manually or by remote control in normal and faulty conditions. A relay inside the circuit breaker sense the errors signal and sends to the mechanical switch which make and close the contacts. The following table shows the main differences between Isolators, Disconnectors and Circuit Breakers.
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Circuit Breaker consists of electromechanical switch and a relay in a single box.Car audio wiring how to wire a battery isolator. High current relays are the most reliable and efficient way to add secondary batteries to your system. Stinger battery isolator wiring diagram. Below is a diagram that shows the process. Stinger sgp32 Prevents primary battery discharge.
A wiring diagram is a kind of schematic which makes use of abstract photographic icons to reveal all the affiliations of components in a system. Wiring diagram available at end of video. A wiring diagram is a streamlined conventional pictorial representation of an electric circuit. This particular model is the stinger sr or sgp Amp relay wiring diagram samplerhjoksdcultivaidde installing stinger sgp a battery isolator relayrhcheaprvliving amazon install bay each ib car electronicsrhamazon stinger sgp amp battery isolator and relayrhsonicelectronix amp stinger rhamazon nvx bir mobile audio for sale rhebay stingerrhstingerelectronics gs power dualauxiliary charge canadian energy youtuberhyoutube vw vanagon.
Maximum current transfer ideal for 2nd audio battery isolation from vehicle systems. Connecting multiple batteries can intimidate the do it your self installer however the process is fairly simple when broken down. Campervanrv electrical system explained battery bank wire gauge. Sound damping batteries speaker wire interconnects and more. A wiring diagram is a streamlined traditional pictorial representation of an electrical circuit.
Assortment of stinger battery isolator wiring diagram. Stinger s amp 4 post battery isolator blue. Stinger battery isolator wiring diagram exactly whats wiring diagram. Stinger stinger sgp32 reviews stinger sgp32 vs nvx bir stinger battery isolators relays.You read that correctly, in its simplest form, all an ACR really does is parallel batteries when charging is present and un-parallel batteries when there is no charging present.
It does this automatically with no human forgetfulness. This was all well and good, charging in parallelso long as the motor was running. However, when the owner stopped the boat the switch was often forgotten about and left in the PARALLEL position thus draining both batteries while on the hook. Unlike a diode type isolator, which causes an approximate 0. In a conversation with Wayne K. Wayne has been retired now, for at least a few years, and that number is now likely much larger. Combiner: Another generic term for an electronic voltage triggered paralleling relay.
There are many, many more but, you get the point. It is nothing more than an electronic switch that is closed or opened using a relay coil. It had somewhere around 12, hours of parallel combined use on a world cruising boat with solar, wind, alternator and genset charging. This particular VSR, a Yandina, carries an unconditional lifetime guarantee. If a NO relay loses power it isolates or un-parallels the batteries. When the contacts are closed the batteries are in parallel. This logic board simply measures the voltage at both Batt 1 and Batt 2 terminals and then tells the coil when to energize or de-energize to close or open the relay.
Relay Coil: The relay coil is what causes the contacts to move from open to closed or from closed to open. It is controlled by the logic board. Energizing this coil closed the relay and places the batteries in parallel. De-energizing the coil allows the relay to open and un-parallel the batteries. Placement matters. This image is intentionally over-simplified to show relay closed parameters and relay installation wiring and location. If you notice there are no battery switches, chargers, alternators etc.
This is done purposely. You do not need to purchase an additional battery switch to make an ACR work! This was oops 1. For oops 2 the owner wound up blowing the diodes in his alternator twice before calling us. With the ACR locked open alternator voltage kept climbing until the diodes in the alternator were blown. Bottom line? These fuses are there to protect the ACR positive wiring from the battery bank should they short to ground.
Start banks are not required to have over-current protection but it never hurts. The green arrow is pointing to the relay being closed and the banks are in parallel. Just like the logic used for closing the relay Blue Sea Systems also has logic to control when the relay opens.
IF voltage is trending upwards and attains This logic is here to enure a large load will not cause the relay to open when it creates a short duration voltage sag. The start isolation feature momentarily opens or un-parallels both banks when the starter motor is engaged.
Doing this will keep the relay open indefinitely.People have been using and charging auxiliary batteries in their cars and caravans with varying degrees of success for over a century. For most of us the days are long gone when all we needed from our auxiliary battery was a small amount of power for a bit of lighting and maybe a radio. So over the years our demands on the humble auxiliary battery have increased to the point that we need much more usable energy, and over a longer period of time, and we need fast and safe ways to recharge our batteries.
Many of the old ways used to charge these batteries are now antiquated, and they mostly never did the job very well anyway, neither were they conducive to long battery life. So lets look at what we need to build a system that will deliver the best performance for our hard earned dollars. Well I guess a good place to start would be an auxiliary battery, then we need an efficient way of charging this battery using the cars alternator, and most importantly, a way of isolating the auxiliary battery from your starting battery, so that your starting battery is not compromised, and so you will always be able to start you vehicle and not be left stranded.
To do this we use what is called a battery isolator, and then we need some cable to connect it all up, simple eh, well it is simple as long as you use the right bits, and put it together the right way…….
Making Sense of Automatic Charging Relays
Basically you should be thinking about how big a battery can you fit, and less about how small and cheap a battery you can get away with, now I know money does not grow on trees, however the larger the battery the less percentage wise you will be draining it each day, and the longer it will last for you, both in power usage battery capacityand in battery life longevitywith the extra advantage of some extra capacity available to you if needed.
The battery isolator is a device that allows the cars alternator to recharge the auxiliary battery while protecting the cars starting battery from discharging, if these batteries are simply linked together you run the very real risk of draining them both to a level that you can not start the engine, and there are many other reasons why you should not do it this way.
So hence we have the battery isolator, there are many different methods used to isolate the batteries, most use some form of solenoid, this is an electronic switch that can handle large charging currents, much more than standard switches can, and they are operated by applying a small amount of power to them, this is turn actuates a solenoid that links the batteries together so that large currents and be passed between the batteries. There are many ways to operate these battery isolators, some much better that others.
The cheapest way is that you manually turn them on and off, I call these idiot switches, because sooner or later some idiot and I've been there will forget to turn the switch on no charge goes into the auxiliary battery or off at the right time and then the starting battery gets drained as well. I believe the best way for most situations is to use a VSR Voltage Sensitive Relay activated solenoid, and I explain a little further on how they work and why I think they are so good.
PS, I have now sold over 1, of these Enerdrive ones and my customers are loving them Wiring…this is without doubt where many people get it wrong and end up with a system that may work, BUT barely, and nowhere near as well as it could and shoulddoing it right can double the usable capacity of your auxiliary batteries over and above what many people normally have, and it will also help them charge much faster, and in turn they will last longer too.
Please understand that when charging from a vehicle alternator one of your biggest enemies is voltage drop, you need to have the highest possible voltage at the auxiliary battery, this will allow it to charge as quickly as possible, and as fully as possible. Some standard set-ups I see regularly that have been fitted by the so called professionals is where they use twin 6mm auto cable really 4. Putting fuses in is necessary because of the potential of a short circuit, now seeing as we are installing good heavy cable so that we can transfer large amounts of current quickly, there is a possible downside Now these good sized cables when short circuited to say the vehicle body, or between them selves either by chafing through, getting hooked by a stick, or heaven forbid, an accident, are capable of producing huge amounts of flame and spark and I mean hugeand this is why we really must install fuses to protect the cabling, the vehicle, and us!
Here we use A fuses, these are purely to protect the cable, or more correctly, as I have just said, to protect you and your vehicle, from the cableand we need two or more of them, one at each battery or battery set, because each battery will be connected to the same cable, even some auto sparkies can't get their heads around this, as they are so used to having only one supply source for the power, not two or more!
Have a look at the photo of a MEGA fuse in it's holder near the bottom of this article, another good thing about this fuse and it's holder is you can use it as a power stud, and have all of your positive cable connections coming off one side of the fuse, with just a single link between the fuse and the battery, it helps make for a much easer, simpler, and neater job.
I have now semi-retired and no longer sell these fuses, or the VSR's, or anything really, but because of the good pricing that I introduced all those years ago, now many others on eBay also sell them at good prices.
A very important thing to consider is where you are going to place your batteries, standard open wet cell batteries give off hydrogen gas when they are charging and discharging, this is a very explosive gas, remember the Hindenburg, there is no problem if you are putting the auxiliary battery under the bonnet of your vehicle, or mounting it somewhere on the chassis with good ventilation to the open air.
Wet cell batteries must be housed in a properly vented area, and must be well vented externally away from any ignition source and from human habitat areas, hydrogen gas rises so sealed battery enclosures should be vented externally top and bottom. If you need to place batteries inside vehicles, then AGM batteries should be seriously considered here as they are totally sealed, AGM batteries if placed in an enclosure only need to be vented to atmosphere not necessarily vented externally.
How to wire it all up. Now this is much simpler than most people think, it is not complex, and as long as you take care almost anyone can do it.Battery isolator systems allow you to charge the secondary batteries in your van when the motor is running.
First off, battery isolators are relatively cheap to install. Secondly, they compliment solar systems really well. You can install this system right alongside your solar system. A battery isolator only transfers power from the alternator to a secondary battery. This means that the All it means is that your batteries will wear out quicker and lose capacity over time.
For smaller systems, this is a relatively small cost. For those camping for long periods of time without driving, this may be an optimum approach. As we said, there are a couple of different ways of hooking up your secondary battery. The general setup is similar for each option.
First check out the infographic below for the basic install layout, and then read on about the different ways isolate your batteries. The install is one of the more basic things you can do for your electrical system. There are four basic ways to make a connection to the secondary batteries.
Each have their pros and cons, so pick one that fits your needs. A manual switch can be paired with the other systems so that you have a hard disconnect as an extra step of safety for working on the leisure batteries. You only need to forget once and you can accidentally drain your starter battery to strand yourself.
They use a little bit of electricity — in this case a 5A wire- to make a connection that much more amperage can travel through- such as a A alternator. The relay signal wire physically moves a piece of metal in the relay to connect the large wire going in to a wire going out. There are moving pieces in a relay, and they can fail. This permanently connects your starter battery with your secondary battery without you knowing.
If you happen to drain your batteries, it can leave you stranded. This is the most complicated of the options to install because you have to wire in a signal to the relay. For battery isolation, you want your relay to activate when the van is running.
Optionally: you can add a toggle switch to the cab area so that you can turn the relay off in the even that you want to. At the least it adds to the cool factor! It is a more budget-conscious option while still protecting your starter battery from accidentally draining.
A Voltage Sensitive Relay VSR is an automatic component that activates when it sees that higher voltage from alternator charging and then turns off when the voltage drops. This is a clever way to not need any external signal wiring so it is easy to set up.
Because it is relay based, it has the same downfalls as the simple relay above. One of the failure modes can leave your batteries permanently connected, which leaves you unable to start your vehicle if you drain the batteries all the way. The only way to know that this has happened before it causes problems is to have a voltage reading of your starter battery and secondary battery and keep track of them. Because the alternator needs to be running for a VSR to work, if your starter battery is dead, there is no direct way to use the leisure batteries to help start the van.
There is a relatively small risk of needing to do this anyway if your starter battery is healthy. Best Use: You want the easiest way to get alternator power in a set-and-forget system. With no voltage drop, this will be the go-to option for most camper vans.